How to remove the rear tub on your own:
Firstly I undid the rear crossmember bolts. Surprisingly easy, they all came out fine. Not too much galvanic corrosion here - I have a cunning plan when it comes to putting them back in; I will affix a thin rubber strip between the crossmember and the rear body in order to insulate the aluminium from the steel crossmember. Then the front bolts. Oh dear, out with the angle grinder...
Then, lifting the rear one side at a time, I slid some old planks underneath (amazing what uses an old pallet has), then repeated this procedure at the front.
I attached four more coach screws to the roof beams and used the trusty old nylon rope.
Pulling on the rope with one hand, and lifting the tub with the other resulted in the rear body being satisfactorily suspended. Here it is from the front:
I then pushed the Landy forward (surprisingly easy) and gradually lowered the rear tub so it was resting on a couple of empty jerrycans. Fortunately a friend came around at this stage on his way to watch a rugby match, so he was press-ganged into assisting with the move of the rear body into the courtyard! (Thanks William!)
That is where the rear body will stay until I have finished inspecting the chassis. I intend to give the rear tub a good clean, paint the galvanised crossmembers, and then perhaps paint the underside with some Stonechip paint.
Here is a view of the inside of the rear crossmember, driver's side:
|
|
|
Suggestions or comments? Contact v8owner at gmail.com
© copyright 2006 v8owner